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Mezcal production is not just a process; it's an art form, a tradition, and a way of life for many communities throughout Mexico. That’s why, as we celebrate Women's History Month, we’re shining a light on the integral, often overlooked role of women in this cornerstone of culture and legacy.
The Heart of Mezcal Production
Mezcal, a symbol of Indigenous heritage, is traditionally produced in palenques where master distillers, known as maestros mezcaleros, oversee the transformation of agave into the revered spirit. While the spotlight often shines on male maestros, women have been the backbone of this process, contributing significantly yet quietly, often in the shadows. Their roles are diverse, from participating in the harvesting of agave to overseeing the fermentation and distillation processes. Within many family-based operations, women bring a meticulous eye to quality control, ensuring that each bottle of mezcal not only excels in taste, but also carries the essence of its origin.
For Marisela Vázquez, an artesanal mezcal producer, women bring a unique skill set to production. “I think we have the advantage of taste on our side—we’re used to tasting things, to cooking, [and] being able to tell what ingredients could make the taste better. I truly think productions by women are going to turn out exquisite.”
Hailing from Santa Catarina Juquila, a town in the state of Oaxaca, Marisela entered the industry in response to its explosion, choosing to start her own label and name it Manensi in honor of the traditional devices used to measure alcohol content.
“I wanted to have my own brand because [of] the increase of non-traditional producers and brands,” she explains. “They are not really making authentic mezcal, that’s how I chose to register my brand… I want to be known for making an authentic mezcal, without additives or chemicals to produce it. A good one, a tasty one.”
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The Pillars of Community and Family
In many mezcal-producing families, women are the custodians of tradition, passing down knowledge and skills through generations. They are educators, storytellers, and cultural ambassadors, preserving the history and traditions of mezcal production for future generations. Ask any producer where their love and appreciation for mezcal originates and chances are they will directly or indirectly cite a woman in their life, whether it be mother, grandmother, or great-grandmother who passed down the knowledge and importance to them.
In their homes and throughout the larger community, women provide pivotal support beyond laboring in palenques, sometimes by managing finances and contributing to the family income through their work, other times by exploring innovative ways to market and sell the mezcal produced, and almost always with the foundational work of household maintenance and administration.
“[W]omen have always been part of it,” highlights Fabiola Santiago, a native of Santiago Matatlán and founder of Mi Oaxaca, an organization whose purpose is to preserve Oaxaca's Indigenous food and beverage cultures. “[W]hether as children like my mother who helped haul wood to make the fire for the oven or to stay up all night so she can help with the distillation process—women have always been a part of it. That also includes women who make food for the men who work the fields. If women don't feed the men who work the fields, there is no mezcal. There is an interdependence that exists between genders, all genders, any gender and we're failing to see that because we're choosing to once again center men and males in the world of mezcal, but it has always been a family affair and women have always been part of it.”
The Fight for Recognition
As we recognize the contributions of women to the mezcal industry, it's essential to acknowledge the challenges they face, including limited access to resources and gender-based barriers in a traditionally male-dominated field. While women’s impact can’t be denied, many are slow to acknowledge their role on an open stage, mainly due to the very traditions they work to preserve.
Carmen Vasquez Ruiz, a native Oaxaqueña who supports and advocates for maestro mezcaleros and hosts cultural experiences ranging from dinners and excursions to guided mezcal tastings, explains the battle. “[Women] still face some challenges, they still face… Well, being away, without being recognized, without being seen in their work, and they also have a strong tradition. So, it's also part of machismo because there are also master mezcaleros who don't want to recognize the wife who helps them with everything. I think this has changed a bit over time, but it's still there in different places, especially in remote areas. And the few women who have come out have been brave and also because of certain circumstances that push them to continue the work first—the work of being master mezcaleras—and with time and effort they are now being recognized.”
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A Toast to Women's Contributions
Celebrating the achievements of women means not only recognizing their current contributions and impact, but also advocating for greater inclusion, support, and recognition in all aspects of mezcal production and community living. It means equipping women with the tools and information they need to actively participate in conversations about the industry and its future. It means empowering them to take their rightful place and tell their story.
This Women's History Month, let's raise our glasses to the women of mezcal and listen to what they have to say. All month long we’ll be highlighting female producers and experts whose resilience, expertise, and dedication to the tradition and innovation of mezcal serve as the backbone of the industry. Follow us over on Instagram to tune in (@magueyexchange).
As we look forward, let's remember that the story of this spirit isn’t just about the beverage itself—it’s about the people who make it and women have always been, and will continue to be, integral to each chapter.
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